Author Topic: Terrain tiles cast from a mold  (Read 23366 times)

Kret69

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #30 on: 12 October 2014, 16:37:03 »
Absolutely stunning.

Ratboy

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #31 on: 13 October 2014, 00:08:49 »
1. Would you use a 1" hex mold?
2. Would you use a 1.25" hex mold?
3. Would you use a 1.5" hex mold?
4. Would you use a 1.75" hex mold?
5. Would you use a 2" hex mold?


I would use all those sizes, but more commonly 1.25, 1.5 and 2"


1. How useful would another mold be if the rock hexes were only 1/4" thick?

2. If I did make a 1/4" thick version of this rock mold, would the edges of each tile be straight (so you could make a large rock slab and still see the hex pattern), or would you prefer all the edges to be broken up and more decorative? Or would the edges be similar to what you see above (some broken on different sides and some straight)?



If it were possible, I would prefer 3/16", but 1/4" will do. For the edges, a slight bevel would be good (similar to the IWM hex bases).



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scatcat

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #32 on: 16 October 2014, 13:06:08 »
Hi Bruce,

I love your products. Your website is my go-to source for casting. I've learned so many tips, techniques, and ideas it's not even funny. In fact, I have a mold shopping list prepped and ready for some upcoming terrain projects....

Now, I do have several questions for you all. First, I want to find out the number of people and the sizes they are interested in. Please let me know:

1. Would you use a 1" hex mold?
2. Would you use a 1.25" hex mold?
3. Would you use a 1.5" hex mold?
4. Would you use a 1.75" hex mold?
5. Would you use a 2" hex mold?

A few years ago I created a poll asking people their favorite hex sizes. If you consider heroscape (~1.73") and 1.75" close enough for government work, the results were a pretty even 2-way split between 1.5", and 2" with 1.75" and standard mapsheet sizes (~1.29") close behind.

Now for the next set of questions. Some have indicated that they would like to have hex bases. Others would simply like to enhance the Heroscape tiles they already have with a thinner layer of real rock. Some may also want to cast up a large rock slab without doing the whole "hill" thing. So the questions I have are:

1. How useful would another mold be if the rock hexes were only 1/4" thick?

2. If I did make a 1/4" thick version of this rock mold, would the edges of each tile be straight (so you could make a large rock slab and still see the hex pattern), or would you prefer all the edges to be broken up and more decorative? Or would the edges be similar to what you see above (some broken on different sides and some straight)?

For both hex bases and overlays I believe thinner is better. I first learned about Merlin's Magic on your site. It's insanely strong. The material should be strong enough for 1/4" or even possibly 1/8" overlays.

My overall take? I'm ecstatic seeing Battletech specific molds, but a little concerned about this specific product. It's very much a niche market within a niche market. I personally can't use these because my terrain is designed for portability while this seems best for stay-at-home terrain.

Have you considered making a battletech equivalent to your #57, #58, and #59 molds? Small buildings/Quonset huts/Downed mech markers/Hesco barriers/fieldworks/etc. would work across all terrain scales and provide something tabletop play currently lacks. I know I'd buy a mold or two.
« Last Edit: 16 October 2014, 13:13:33 by scatcat »

brucehirst

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #33 on: 16 October 2014, 16:04:06 »
I can't promise anything but I do have plans for making a couple of 6mm building and bunker molds.  Since these blocks are exactly 1/2" tall, it makes it possible to create a fortress that can climb up the side of a hill. Since most bunkers are concrete, casting them in plaster works great. You would be able to break some of the pieces for realistic looking destroyed bunkers.

I don't have any refined ideas yet but doing the tedious work of sculpting rock gives me time to come up with some. I'm almost finished with my rework of the 1.5" tiles and am also working on the 1.75" ones.

Dak

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #34 on: 16 October 2014, 17:01:01 »
I already use a bunch of Hirst Arts molds to make Battletech miniature-scale buildings.



These are all made with real blocks, I just haven't had a chance to paint any up. Hopefully they'll show up in some future photography. :)

Dak

Luriael

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #35 on: 17 October 2014, 13:06:17 »
I already use a bunch of Hirst Arts molds to make Battletech miniature-scale buildings.



These are all made with real blocks, I just haven't had a chance to paint any up. Hopefully they'll show up in some future photography. :)

Dak

picture is broken :(
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Dak

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #36 on: 17 October 2014, 18:34:18 »
Aww, thanks Lur. It was on my Dropbox so that's probably why. (I can see it.)

Well if anyone feels like clicking...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xjojaghvnscc1yk/ToDisplay2014.jpg?dl=0

Dak

scatcat

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #37 on: 18 October 2014, 10:57:50 »
Amazing!

Dragon41673

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #38 on: 18 October 2014, 11:19:13 »
Whoa whoa whoa...

Dak...you're making those???
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TS_Hawk

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #39 on: 18 October 2014, 14:01:31 »
Very nice DAK can't wait to see the final product

Thank you Hikage
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Dak

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #40 on: 18 October 2014, 15:49:34 »
Yes Dragon, they're made from the Hirst Arts molds I have. Basically all glued up like LEGOs. A few even appeared on the CSO Wars of Reaving display board at GenCon if you look for them carefully.

Luriael

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #41 on: 20 October 2014, 14:15:52 »
impressive stuff Dak, makes me want to start working on terrain but I better not spread myself too much or I won't be finishing any of the projects!
"Politics is supposed to be the second oldest profession. I have come to realize that it bears a very close resemblance to the first."
                                                                                                                                                 
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Dragon41673

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #42 on: 20 October 2014, 14:20:23 »
That's awesome DAK! Congrats!!! If you ever plan on making some & selling, I'd definitely be interested.
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SeeM

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #43 on: 21 October 2014, 10:09:02 »
Here's an update on the project so far.  Below is a photo of the finished test hill.

Well, that's a rock I personally would use for a partial cover any day. :) With +2 modifier just for awesomeness.
(+)

ph423r

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #44 on: 21 October 2014, 16:08:26 »
1. How useful would another mold be if the rock hexes were only 1/4" thick?

I would most likely use 1.75" or 2" hexes, and I would like if not prefer the .25" option.

2. If I did make a 1/4" thick version of this rock mold, would the edges of each tile be straight (so you could make a large rock slab and still see the hex pattern), or would you prefer all the edges to be broken up and more decorative? Or would the edges be similar to what you see above (some broken on different sides and some straight)?

I'm liking the way they look now.

Kovax

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #45 on: 29 October 2014, 14:01:37 »
I'm torn between the 1.5" and 1.75" sizes.  Going to 2" might be better visually, such as for adding trees without interfering with the mini, or for placing more than one unit in a hex (subject to the 1 'Mech maximum), but then table space and weight start to become limiting factors.

Having a mix of straight and broken edges would suit me better than only one or the other.

1/4" thick is probably just thick enough to give a sense of height without excessive weight, although they could be 3/8" or 1/2" and I'd be fine with it.  In the latter cases, it would look more impressive, but be less portable, heavier, and more expensive.  Since the 'Mechs are definitely not to scale with the map anyway (otherwise the hexes would need to be around 4" wide), the height is fine.

As pointed out in earlier posts, there are plenty of better choices of material than Plaster of Paris.  USG Hydrocal is cheap and about triple the strength of PoP, Hydrostone is along the lines of 5X the strength, while Merlin's Magic and Excalibur at the high end are even stronger (although the last is quite heavy and a bit more finicky on mix ratios, etc.).  Woodland Scenics also sells "Lightweight Hydrocal" which isn't much stronger than PoP (it's likely to take some damage from routine handling), but weighs a lot less.  Some people use Durham's Water Putty or expansion cement with good results.  Resins are lighter, but cost a lot more and can damage the mold unless proper protective coatings are applied before each pour.

Minnow

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #46 on: 29 October 2014, 14:58:33 »
I would be using the 1.75"
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brucehirst

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #47 on: 30 October 2014, 09:13:45 »
I've finished the master molds for the 1.5", 1.75" and 2" sizes.  These pieces are all 1/2" tall and have a combination of broken and straight edges similar to the last example shown.  I've kept them at 1/2" height so they could still be combined with any of our other molds which have a standard block height of 1/2".  That way folks could use any of the sci-fi molds in combination with them.

There are also some loose rocks to fill in some of the small empty areas on the mold. These rocks are all exactly 1/4" tall and allow you to break up the flat surface naturally or make sort of a "step" effect between 1/2" levels.

I won't have the building instructions up for a while though. The reason is that I'm trying to create a whole set of mech-scale molds that will be used together. I have some rough ideas but really don't know if any of them will work. I will be devoting a couple of months to this project just to see where it goes.

One of the reasons I'm looking forward to this project is that 6mm scale concrete fortresses seem like a perfect idea to be cast in plaster or stone. Plaster breaks like concrete (for battle damage), colors like concrete, and basic shapes are fairly simple to get out of a mold.

When making 28mm models for Warhammer and other games, you really can't make gigantic castles or fortifications - there's just no room on the table.  Instead you're stuck with small rooms, small buildings or dungeon hallways. With mech scale terrain you can make the whole fortification that will fit on the table. This gives me a chance to explore some other building options that were never possible before.

I've added these three molds to my shopping cart at http://store.hirstarts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=HAOS&Category_Code=Floormolds. They are very expensive, being exactly twice the size of any of my regular molds. I will be working on a basic tutorial and video on using these for hills. This will take me a couple more weeks.

Thanks,
Bruce Hirst
« Last Edit: 02 November 2014, 17:47:22 by brucehirst »

Luriael

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #48 on: 02 November 2014, 21:58:48 »
sexy Bruce, will get one as soon as I start working on my terrain!
"Politics is supposed to be the second oldest profession. I have come to realize that it bears a very close resemblance to the first."
                                                                                                                                                 
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brucehirst

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #49 on: 15 November 2014, 12:45:12 »
Hello everyone,

I've now made some videos on how to cast, assemble and paint the hexes to make rock hills. I will add these to my web site as well but it will take a couple of weeks to make the web page (lots of photos and explanations to write out).

Anyway, here's the first video on casting:

http://youtu.be/48hsi9mwtZk



Here's the second video on gluing and assembling the hexes:

http://youtu.be/7qsRZmQcME4



And finally, here's the video on painting the pieces:

http://youtu.be/_CJ8JIkjoR0



I would have embedded the videos here but I can't seem to figure out how to do it.

Thanks,
Bruce Hirst
« Last Edit: 16 November 2014, 11:59:19 by brucehirst »

Mwenski

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #50 on: 17 November 2014, 09:25:18 »
That looks great, your site is an excellent resource on casting. I'm looking forward to Christmas so I can get a few molds.

Dak

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #51 on: 17 November 2014, 19:35:10 »
Whoo! I get to spend 50 minutes with new Hirst Arts videos! (Sorry, kind of creepy, I know.) His videos are so informational and encouraging. The old how-tos on the site were too brief!

Dak

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #52 on: 17 November 2014, 20:02:48 »
This is very interesting. I sculpted some custom terrain hexes awhile back, and just started planning out how to make molds from those. So, I'm looking forward to seeing more of this project.


And a couple tips for anyone using sculpey: 1) use Super Sculpey/Sculpey III, or Super Sculpey Firm. Regular Sculpey is less expensive, but it is not the same in consistency. 2) If your pieces are coming out brittle, try baking the pieces at a lower temperature for a slightly longer period of time. Over-baking can cause brittleness. Properly baked super sculpey should actually be pretty resilient.
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BattleTech and original art          Free hex map template!

brucehirst

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #53 on: 14 December 2014, 14:15:36 »
Hello Everyone!

I've finally uploaded the instructions for using the hex molds on my web site at http://www.hirstarts.com/rockhex/rockhex.html.

Thanks,
Bruce Hirst

mbear

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #54 on: 19 December 2014, 09:58:05 »
One thing I'd suggest is for molds that cover more than one hex each. That is, with seven-hex "rosettes" as the basic unit, to minimize setup times and misalignment. I play several games that use hexes, so I'll be watching this project closely.

I just saw this post and had a thought (now that it's too late to make changes to the molds, of course): Maybe include alignment pins or keys in one side of the hexes so they lock together? That would help prevent the misalignment problem if the player is making their own terrain out of your molds. I'm thinking something like a dowel joint in furniture or the mold registration marks shown in this video.

Just putting a ball bearing on the sides so that one side has a dent and the other a bump would do it.
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brucehirst

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #55 on: 20 December 2014, 09:54:43 »
It's kind of hard to describe but misalignment is not really much of a problem.  Once you start placing hexes next to each other, they're heavy enough that they don't move around and a slight misalignment doesn't really amount to much. I designed them more for hill groups that go on top of a table. If you covered an entire tabletop with them, then you would still be OK if you printed out the hex grid sheets and glued the hexes together using this as a guide.

You might be familiar with Dwarven Forge, they make pre-made and painted dungeon hallways for Dungeons & Dragons. When their products first came out, the started using "bow tie" connectors to align the hallways and keep the dungeon connected together.  After a while, they just dropped them completely and simply butt the hallways together, which looks a whole lot better. The pieces are heavy enough that they don't move around on the table anyway.  Making the bow tie connector for their first dungeon set was put in to solve a problem that was never much of a problem. The constant fiddling with bow ties and their odd look in the dungeon outweighed the usefulness of having them.

To me, it's sort of the same thing with the hexes.
Thanks,
Bruce Hirst

naztech

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #56 on: 28 December 2014, 19:41:48 »
Amazing...

Do you still consider making other sizes? I´d love to use them on the standard 1.25'' hex Battletech maps.

A friend of mine has just introduced me to your work and I´m so jelous  [drool]


mbear

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #57 on: 29 December 2014, 07:35:26 »
It's kind of hard to describe but misalignment is not really much of a problem.  Once you start placing hexes next to each other, they're heavy enough that they don't move around and a slight misalignment doesn't really amount to much. I designed them more for hill groups that go on top of a table. If you covered an entire tabletop with them, then you would still be OK if you printed out the hex grid sheets and glued the hexes together using this as a guide.

OK. Sounds reasonable.

You might be familiar with Dwarven Forge, they make pre-made and painted dungeon hallways for Dungeons & Dragons. When their products first came out, the started using "bow tie" connectors to align the hallways and keep the dungeon connected together.  After a while, they just dropped them completely and simply butt the hallways together, which looks a whole lot better. The pieces are heavy enough that they don't move around on the table anyway.  Making the bow tie connector for their first dungeon set was put in to solve a problem that was never much of a problem. The constant fiddling with bow ties and their odd look in the dungeon outweighed the usefulness of having them.

To me, it's sort of the same thing with the hexes.
Thanks,
Bruce Hirst
Everything you say here makes sense. Just wanted to try to solve a (non-existent) problem. ;)
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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #58 on: 03 January 2015, 11:29:45 »
I already use a bunch of Hirst Arts molds to make Battletech miniature-scale buildings.



These are all made with real blocks, I just haven't had a chance to paint any up. Hopefully they'll show up in some future photography. :)

Dak

Can you give me a list of the mold numbers you used?  A buddy of mine has a lot of Bruce's molds already. We want to try building some of these pieces.  Thanks!

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Re: Terrain tiles cast from a mold
« Reply #59 on: 03 January 2015, 19:53:50 »
From what I can make out, Dak used pieces from molds 91,271,272,300,301,302,320,321,325,326,327. Possibly a couple of pieces from 303, but I'm not 100% on that one.

 

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