BattleTech - The Board Game of Armored Combat
BattleTech Miniatures and Terrain => Gaming Terrain => Topic started by: NeonKnight on 13 January 2019, 20:37:33
-
Gotta say. Loving my 3d-Printer!
Been printing some buildings for play, and they be looking SWEET!
I did a Mech Repair-bay, and then a Monsterpocalypse Building. Problem was I was neglectful, and did not check the scale, so it's a little...small :(
A few calculations later based on standard heights for a single story (coming in at around 4 meters), and based on talks with Brent Evans, a Level in Battletech is approximated 1.5 Stories, so, my corrected 10 Storey Monsterpocalypse building is now 7 levels in height :D
-
Nice... mine is still being shipped. It was supposed to arrive for Christmas, but (cue excuse matrix from the manufacturer)... ::)
-
Noice.
We are truly in a terrain/city-building golden age.
-
Woo! FedEx says my printer is in Kansas City, heading this way. Only half the country to go! ::)
-
Woo! FedEx says my printer is in Kansas City, heading this way. Only half the country to go! ::)
What kind?
I have a Creality CR-10s
-
My wife got it for me for Christmas, and hasn't shared any details with me beyond "coming from China"... ::)
I'll let you know as soon as I do! :)
-
Huh, that Repair Bay looks a LOT like the ones from MechCommander/MCGold.
-
Just picked up a used Flashforge Finder. Still experimenting but I plan to do some Btech stuff soon
-
My wife got it for me for Christmas, and hasn't shared any details with me beyond "coming from China"... ::)
I'll let you know as soon as I do! :)
Sounds like it could be a Creality then.
-
Anyone know of any files for the little detail bits like Dropzone Commander sells as resin that are like AC units, AC duct, roof fans and other things? I have been trying to find some 3D printed detail bits to put on home-made buildings to improve their look & level of detail.
-
For anyone looking to convert Building sizes to Levels to print sizes I made this up to help my calculations.
Note, that this is especially useful for Hexless terrain/Alpha Strike type terrain. Also good for those Larger HEX scales (I personally use a 1.75" Hex For gaming.
-
Anyone know of any files for the little detail bits like Dropzone Commander sells as resin that are like AC units, AC duct, roof fans and other things? I have been trying to find some 3D printed detail bits to put on home-made buildings to improve their look & level of detail.
maybe under this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:model_railroad
-
Huh, no wonder I did not see much with model railroads, I left out the underscore on that site. Not quite what I was looking for, but it does have a few items.
(https://i.pinimg.com/736x/57/35/90/57359098a25760c1070352a93d4aa6d1--k-terrain-wargaming-terrain.jpg)
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/ad/7d/06/ad7d06b625acc75bfa218a9dbc6f346f.jpg)
You can kind of see the rooftop stuff I was referring to in those pictures. I know some folks have also made files for reliefs on the front of buildings for ledges and other details that add depth to the building.
-
This is a Good AC Unit
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2618055 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2618055)
I have used it on my Red Rocket Station
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3276157 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3276157)
I have a CR-10 mini and it printed with ease.
-
Woo! It showed up today, though I'm going to wait to unbox it until my wife gets home from work. The outside says "Ender-3 Pro", and "Shenzhen Creality 3D Technology Co., LTD."
-
Two blobs later, it's a dog! My wife dialed in whatever it was, and the third time was the charm... now she's going to try something more ambitious (she Kickstarted Fat Dragon Games a couple of times, and has been waiting for the chance ever since...).
-
The first two skeletons came out pretty good. We used the free roll of feed stock that came in the box, but they're really not bad at all.
-
Two blobs later, it's a dog! My wife dialed in whatever it was, and the third time was the charm... now she's going to try something more ambitious (she Kickstarted Fat Dragon Games a couple of times, and has been waiting for the chance ever since...).
Fat Dragon has a youtube video about printing miniatures and using Cura. They have some settings you can get a profile for. I used them and tweaked them a bit for my cr20 pro and they have been fantastic.
-
I'm pretty sure she watched it, and we've been printing like crazy. One particular piece gave us trouble (a well roof), but once we told it to give it a base, it stayed put on the platform.
-
That has been my experience too. Printing with a brim or skirt has been a struggle. I put a raft under it and it prints beautifully. I tried hairspray on the magnetic print bed and that was not great.
-
Hadn't heard of the hairspray trick... based on your experience, I'm glad we missed it... ;)
-
Just thought I'd post up, and mention I now have a 2nd 3d Printer, thins time the ANYCUBIC PHOTON:
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1sPWNXe6sK1RjSsrbq6xbDXXag/ANYCUBIC-3D-Printer-Photon-2K-2-8-Touch-LCD-Screen-UV-LED-Ultimate-Slice-Speed-Desktop.jpg_640x640.jpg)
This prints in amazing detail, but prints with photosensitive Resin, so the smell factor is much higher.
Yes, I use this to print some mechs and such, and as a result, won;t show pics of those.
-
I found that the roller for my bed may be loose. I will check that and see if that help my brim and skirt printing situation.
-
Hey guys, hope you don't mind a quick threadjack, but I wanted to ask if you could tell me which printer you would recommend - the Anycubic Photon or the Creality CR-10s, as those are the two printers I'm looking at buying for my first ever 3D printer. I'd like to print hex terrain and buildings, as well as MWO mech minis and maybe some small D&D tabletop minis as well.
-
Not familiar with either of those specific models, but I'll say given my experience with the Ender-3 Pro from Creality, if you can get something with automatic bed levelling, GET IT! :)
-
Hey guys, hope you don't mind a quick threadjack, but I wanted to ask if you could tell me which printer you would recommend - the Anycubic Photon or the Creality CR-10s, as those are the two printers I'm looking at buying for my first ever 3D printer. I'd like to print hex terrain and buildings, as well as MWO mech minis and maybe some small D&D tabletop minis as well.
I have both. The Crealty CR10-s is my go to for Larger Models and buildings.
The Photon is excellent for the extemely close details needed for the printing of minis with good detail.
Below see two buildings I printed up on the CR-10s.
And I backed a Kickstarter Campaign and already have the files now:
https://deadlyprintstudio.com/
This will allow me to print some Firing Missiles, weapon blasts etc to add to my mechs to make them look cooler :D
-
Spitballing priorities, I would probably recommend that if one is going for a single printer, get the one that's better at miniature detail. While 3D printed buildings are very cool, the hobbyist can get very good results with foam board, mat board, and styrene (after all that's what effects artists work in; you can always print specific details like roof chillers with the precision printer).
-
Spitballing priorities, I would probably recommend that if one is going for a single printer, get the one that's better at miniature detail. While 3D printed buildings are very cool, the hobbyist can get very good results with foam board, mat board, and styrene (after all that's what effects artists work in; you can always print specific details like roof chillers with the precision printer).
I agree. If I was to do it again, I'd have got the Photon and not the Creality. Mind you, the creality will serve me well when I print some of the Box Set Minis at 3-4x the regular size (and yes I do have permission) as prize give-aways for future events I have planned.
-
Right, the PHoton it is then. Miniatures were my biggest priority, due to the expense of adding to my Mech collection using just IWM minis (oi vey, my pocketbook...) :'( Plus, the MWO minis do look pretty cool. Thanks for the advice, guys!
-
Check out my Catapult in the Minis forum with missiles that were done on my photon.
-
Nice. Makes me want a 3D printer even more now
-
A colleague at work has gotten a 3D printer. It's convinced me I could do good things, provided I spent all the time I spend on making & painting my minis, on learning how to use a 3D printer to best effect. Which seems slightly self-defeating, for me anyway.
When we can get a BT-scale vehicle printed for a couple of bucks by a third-party provider, at suitable resolution for tabletop use; when you could get your 3D terrain, or Heroscape-style hexes, printed for less than the cost of buying them commercially, the millenium will have come.
I'm loving watching those who have more time, or more interest in the 3D printers, doing wonderful things.
W.
-
Any opinions on this printer:
https://flashforge-usa.com/products/finder-3d-printer
Has good amazon reviews. I was planning on mainly printing Btech type minis for wargames. My preference would be to not have a grainy appearance.
-
I cannot reccomend enough if you are looking to do Minis, to go the Resin Route. PLA doesn't quite get the same level of detail.
-
I cannot reccomend enough if you are looking to do Minis, to go the Resin Route. PLA doesn't quite get the same level of detail.
The other limitation to the Finder is that it's a single filament machine. It has to print any support structure out of the same material as the item. The contact points for the supports are fairly thin but it can still leave you with a fair bit of sanding and filing. A machine with PVA supports is much better suited to complex, unsupported features like overhangs. Here's (https://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-succeed-when-3d-printing-with-pva-support-material)a good article about that.
All that said, I have a Finder and I've been pretty happy with it. The stock slicer software is okay, but I'm looking into something that will let have more control over layering and infill.
-
I cannot reccomend enough if you are looking to do Minis, to go the Resin Route. PLA doesn't quite get the same level of detail.
Is the only way to go resin a SLA printer? I'm really looking to jump in so if there are some articles or pages I should review to educate my self rather than bother you guys with questions feel free to point me that way.
-
The other limitation to the Finder is that it's a single filament machine. It has to print any support structure out of the same material as the item. The contact points for the supports are fairly thin but it can still leave you with a fair bit of sanding and filing. A machine with PVA supports is much better suited to complex, unsupported features like overhangs. Here's (https://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-succeed-when-3d-printing-with-pva-support-material)a good article about that.
All that said, I have a Finder and I've been pretty happy with it. The stock slicer software is okay, but I'm looking into something that will let have more control over layering and infill.
Grimlock, would the finder allow for using different software if I wanted? I was considering the Anycubic Photon but some of what I have read says the odor is noticeable in an SLA and I was planning on using this in the house.
Is there any good source to compare PVA/SLA/etc. I like to get the best bang for my buck in the $300 to $400 dollar range and the prints from the finder on the Youtube review looked really good but if I can spend a shade more and get an appreciable increase in value or performance I'm open to it.
-
I've got some great prints off a co-worker with a filament printer (I dunno the fancy words). 1:200 armour is a little small next to IWM vehicles, but not as bad as true 1:285 like GHQ. I'll try & post some pics. He's played with resolution & layering; the finest is very good, but the faster (~45 minutes to print an SU-122) are good indeed!
OTOH, I have some lovely resin prints from another gent I know, who got himself the "best under $15K" printer on the market. And yes, they are lovely.
I think it comes down to how much you intend to use it. I'd suggest that the current cheaper printers are entirely capable of making items which will look fine on the gaming table. If you're looking to make 'Mech-scale WarShips, or masters for casting, the resins seem the way to go at the moment.
My main beef is that the time to become fluent with a 3D printer would eat the time I have for the painting/modding of minis. So I'm happy to sit back atm.
W.
-
My main beef is that the time to become fluent with a 3D printer would eat the time I have for the painting/modding of minis. So I'm happy to sit back atm.
Why mod minis when you can make them exactly how you want them?
I know I'm stirring the pot, but I can't help myself.
-
Why mod minis when you can make them exactly how you want them?
Because he can't make them exactly how he wants as he lacks the 3D modeling skills. But he does have the modding skills. WT should learn to code. ^-^
Woodworkers make things out of wood. Metal-workers make them from metal. Modders mod and 3D modelers go that route. 8)
-
I'm a kitbasher. I need someone else to make things, and then I change/combine them.
If I was a sculptor, might be different. And I was a coder, decades ago. PICK, Fortran77, Pascal, anyone? :wheelchair:
-
cleanup
-
Pascal was what we used in my AP Computer Science class in high school...
-
If you want me to invoke 6502 & Z80 assembly language ... Execute User Immediately!
-
We had to use assembly language in a few labs in college... It wasn't that bad, but I wouldn't call if "fun" either...
-
I'm a kitbasher. I need someone else to make things, and then I change/combine them.
If I was a sculptor, might be different. And I was a coder, decades ago. PICK, Fortran77, Pascal, anyone? :wheelchair:
Hey, don't knock Fortran! Until 6 months ago, I worked at a particle accelerator that was running on Fortran. In fact, they finally finished upgrading to Fortran 90 about 2 years ago!
-
Nice 3d prints.
If you're interested in 3d printing, there's at least 2 links you absolutely need to know:
https://www.reprap.org/wiki/RepRap - the rep rap project aims to build a 3d printer which can print itself. The community has a wiki and a forum, both of which are full of interesting info and projects (mostly 3d printer designs build by people) related to 3d printing. Topics include, amongst others: building and calibrating printers, printing in various materials, various colors, printing electronics (!), recycling old prints into filament.
https://www.thingiverse.com/ - a giant repository of printable object, most of which are permissively licensed and ready to print. Includes some interesting categories - e.g. "wargaming" and "architecture" contain many objects which could be rescaled and used as terrain.
-
Go to Thingiverse, and find Bergman's 1:200 WW2 packs (all 4 of them), and his 1:100 pack, and his WW1 1:200 pack. All the historical vehicles you'll ever need. The 1:200 is a little small; a SU-122 comes out about the same size as a Striker or Hetzer. But scale can be modified.
If nothing else, I'll be getting lots of trucks printed - the gent who'll do them for me is very price-competitive with ordering metal heavy APCs, or buying epic Rhinos off ebay.
-
Spitballing priorities, I would probably recommend that if one is going for a single printer, get the one that's better at miniature detail. While 3D printed buildings are very cool, the hobbyist can get very good results with foam board, mat board, and styrene (after all that's what effects artists work in; you can always print specific details like roof chillers with the precision printer).
I need to re-up this. After some time's passed, I think my more frequent use case is just going to be structural rather than artistic, so enclosures, hinges, and couplings. So I'm looking for good structural integrity with good resolution for a nice appearance and hand-feel.