Author Topic: Dropship scale (Read 13288 times)

TylerDurden · « **on:** 04 February 2011, 09:27:18 »

What are the general sizes of spherical dropships using hexless terrain scale (2" = 1 hex)? I'm thinking of making one and just need an approximate size.

serrate · « **Reply #1 on:** 04 February 2011, 12:33:19 »

Conversion to terrain scale where 30 meters (1 hex) = 2" ; (15 meters = 1")

Formula: (actual size in meters)/15 = X inches in terrain scale

Union Dropship (81.5m x 78m): 5.4" width x 5.2" height
Overlord Dropship (99m x 131m): 6.6" width x 8.7" height

Hope that helps!

Edit: "actual size" in the formula must be in meters.

Cache · « **Reply #2 on:** 04 February 2011, 18:00:10 »

I wouldn't use the 1 hex = 2 inches scale. They'll look odd on the terrain compared to your miniatures. After all, you don't scale down buildings like that. That scale is intended for movement and ranges only. If you're going to make a dropship rather than using the mapscale dropships, go all out and make it 1/285th scale.

Union (81.5m x 78m) = 28.6cm (11.25") wide x 27.4cm (10.75") high
Overlord (99m x 131m) = 34.7cm (13.67")wide x 46cm (18.11") high

TylerDurden · « **Reply #3 on:** 04 February 2011, 21:09:46 »

Both valid points. I would like to keep the drop ship in scale with the mechs. Looks like I would go with the latter option.

Thorsdad · « **Reply #4 on:** 05 February 2011, 00:14:04 »

If you look in TW the general size used for a dropship is roughly covering six hexes....

Not terribly pleased with a paper mache Union I spied a possible Overlord while passing through the local Easter display at Hobby Lobby...a little fun with the Dremel, putty, super glue and primer and we have this "game" piece. Sure you really would not be able to cram 36 Mechs in it but hey, for an hours work....

Sigma · « **Reply #5 on:** 05 February 2011, 00:17:32 »

Take a look at the IWM Mech-scale Leopard from 2003 or the Aurora from the Clickytech game. They both usually still go for less than $90 on ebay and look really great.

Somebody also had a fancy mech-scale Union at Gencon a couple of years ago, a big black beast riding a pillar of flame.

Thorsdad · « **Reply #6 on:** 05 February 2011, 00:23:15 »

Fore mentioned Union and Overlord from last Thursdays game...

Schottenjaeger · « **Reply #7 on:** 05 February 2011, 01:20:12 »

Quote from: Sigma on 05 February 2011, 00:17:32

...Somebody also had a fancy mech-scale Union at Gencon a couple of years ago, a big black beast riding a pillar of flame.

That's Steve Satak, of The Battletech Reader. He's got a few posts up on his blog, and I'm pretty sure he'd react well to you asking how he pulled it off. He made several comments about being annoyed that pretty much no-one was actually interested in trying to pull something similar off..

Anyway, I just picked up a cheap, 1' diameter plastic Christmas ornament from Target, and I'm busy sanding the foil layer off 'er now in preparation for the panel lines. Mech scale, it's probably somewhere in between the Mule & Overlord.
Got a couple of cheap space shuttles too, they're getting very hacked up - I'm thinking custom 2-Mech Aerodynes, with a hull extension, but that has to wait for Apoxiesculpt.

mk4decoy · « **Reply #8 on:** 05 February 2011, 02:34:42 »

If your willing to spend the effort, mech scale dropships are amazing. This attempt at a Fortress class is going to be the centerpiece for my Light Horse.

I used a 11" hamster ball as structure, cut out gear doors, made crappy landing struts and attached PVC and balsa for detail. It was made without any real planning ahead, so you'll have to excuse the sloppiness. No part of this thing is straight or symmetrical.

I've been thinking that a 6-7" hamster ball might make a good Confederate.

TylerDurden · « **Reply #9 on:** 05 February 2011, 06:52:41 »

Quote from: mk4decoy on 05 February 2011, 02:34:42

If your willing to spend the effort, mech scale dropships are amazing. This attempt at a Fortress class is going to be the centerpiece for my Light Horse.

I used a 11" hamster ball as structure, cut out gear doors, made crappy landing struts and attached PVC and balsa for detail. It was made without any real planning ahead, so you'll have to excuse the sloppiness. No part of this thing is straight or symmetrical.

I've been thinking that a 6-7" hamster ball might make a good Confederate.

Did you dampen the balsa to shape it before applying it?

TylerDurden · « **Reply #10 on:** 05 February 2011, 06:55:14 »

Quote from: Schottenjaeger on 05 February 2011, 01:20:12

That's Steve Satak, of The Battletech Reader. He's got a few posts up on his blog, and I'm pretty sure he'd react well to you asking how he pulled it off. He made several comments about being annoyed that pretty much no-one was actually interested in trying to pull something similar off..

Anyway, I just picked up a cheap, 1' diameter plastic Christmas ornament from Target, and I'm busy sanding the foil layer off 'er now in preparation for the panel lines. Mech scale, it's probably somewhere in between the Mule & Overlord.
Got a couple of cheap space shuttles too, they're getting very hacked up - I'm thinking custom 2-Mech Aerodynes, with a hull extension, but that has to wait for Apoxiesculpt.

How are you planning to make the panel lines?

Schottenjaeger · « **Reply #11 on:** 05 February 2011, 07:04:48 »

A v-gouge, a sharpie, a compass, and a straightedge. There are certain advantages to having a brother who's a woodworker.

Engines are coming from the aforementioned Space Shuttle kits: Struts are thin card, plastic and brass tubing, and sheet plastic. Thanks to a timely purchase from Tamiya, I also have fuel tanks, a crane, and what will soon be a passable mech bay from a 1/400 harbor set.

Lorcan Nagle · « **Reply #12 on:** 05 February 2011, 08:00:09 »

I did a mech-scale Union the year before last with a Hamster ball covered in modelling clay and then balsa wood panels It came out looking quite nice

photos from the construction here

Thorsdad · « **Reply #13 on:** 05 February 2011, 18:30:58 »

I suppose a hamster ball has the additional advantage of readily available hay/pellet powered engines.... :D or a means for attracting the ever popular "cat" strike.

mk4decoy · « **Reply #14 on:** 06 February 2011, 11:50:01 »

Quote from: TylerDurden on 05 February 2011, 06:52:41

Did you dampen the balsa to shape it before applying it?

Exactly. The idea is not mine. The old forums had a great thread from a modeler whose name I can't remember who built large scale naval models, and he made an absolutely perfect Union from a fiberglass sphere shaped in a fishbowl. He used soaked balsa glued to a grid pattern while it was still wet, and it really works well. 1/16th holds the curve pretty well, and you can trim it pretty easily to fix mistakes.

Lorcan Nagle · « **Reply #15 on:** 06 February 2011, 11:52:37 »

It was schriv, I used the thread as a guideline too.

TylerDurden · « **Reply #16 on:** 06 February 2011, 13:00:01 »

Well, I'm throwing my hat into the ring. I bought a ten inch styrofoam sphere and some very thing birch plywood. It is flexible enough to shape a little, but not as much as balsa. I'm cutting small panels and gluing them with hot glue. Once it's down, it stays down. I can sand anything that isn't perfect.

Vlads Fangs · « **Reply #17 on:** 06 February 2011, 13:28:08 »

Brainburn · « **Reply #18 on:** 06 February 2011, 13:44:51 »

I have attached a conversion spreadsheet that I whipped up to convert Btech size to a mech scale format.

hope it helps.

brainburn

Schottenjaeger · « **Reply #19 on:** 07 February 2011, 00:27:23 »

Quote from: TylerDurden on 06 February 2011, 13:00:01

...styrofoam sphere ...

just make very sure that you prime it with household acrylic, not spray paint. And hit it twice on the balsa, that stuff sucks up paint bad unless you sand-seal-sand.

TylerDurden · « **Reply #20 on:** 07 February 2011, 08:36:33 »

Quote from: Brainburn on 06 February 2011, 13:44:51

I have attached a conversion spreadsheet that I whipped up to convert Btech size to a mech scale format.

hope it helps.

brainburn

Very helpful! Thanks!

TylerDurden · « **Reply #21 on:** 07 February 2011, 08:38:19 »

Quote from: Schottenjaeger on 07 February 2011, 00:27:23

just make very sure that you prime it with household acrylic, not spray paint. And hit it twice on the balsa, that stuff sucks up paint bad unless you sand-seal-sand.

Yeah, I'm not touching it with anything but acrylics. Definitely need to put a priming coat on it because, as you say, the wood is going to absorb a lot. Reminds me of the days when I made model rockets.