Jewelers Saw or Hobby Saw?

[ActionButler]

Does anyone have any experience with either type of cutting instrument?  I have a Victor that I would like to repose, which will require a fair amount of dismembering.  A quick glance at Amazon makes me think that a jewelers saw would be easier to find replacement blades for, which is important, but any advice on cutting quality would be EXTREMELY appreciated.

Cheers!

[mdauben]

Does anyone have any experience with either type of cutting instrument? 

Not quite sure what you mean by "hobby saw" are you thinking of something like the Xacto Razor Saw?



If so, while a razor saw can be useful, I find a Jewlers Saw is the better choice for cutting apart a miniature to modify or repose it. 

[ActionButler]

Yes!  That is exactly what I was thinking.
If a jewelers saw works better, though, that's what I will start looking for.

Thanks!

[Ratboy]

Even better if you can find them are the #13 micro saw blades that go in a #1 handle. They have razor teeth on them and are the same thickness as an #11 x-acto blade.

Excel part #20013

[Cache]

They each have their own uses.  The hobby saw isn't going to make curved cuts or get into tight spaces.  I had trouble getting used to my jewelers saw and broke a lot of blades.  I would up buying a vise for it and that helped quite a bit.

[ActionButler]

Even better if you can find them are the #13 micro saw blades that go in a #1 handle. They have razor teeth on them and are the same thickness as an #11 x-acto blade.

Excel part #20013

Now that you mention it, I might give that a try.  I think the local craft store had a pack of those blades when I was there last.  My big concern with getting a jeweler's saw is exactly what Cache described and I don't really have a dedicated workspace for a vise. 

[Ratboy]

Rule of thumb with the #13 blades is use gentle pressure, as too much force will bend the blade and make is useless. Easiest way I found is to hold it like a pencil and use your wrist to move the saw back and forth.

[BirdofPrey]

Even better if you can find them are the #13 micro saw blades that go in a #1 handle. They have razor teeth on them and are the same thickness as an #11 x-acto blade.

Excel part #20013

From whom?  I saw a #15 that fits a #2 handle, but haven't seen this one you mention.
That said, it's a nice tip.  I've been using a hobby saw, but it isn't the best on such small projects.

[Cache]

My big concern with getting a jeweler's saw is exactly what Cache described and I don't really have a dedicated workspace for a vise.

For what it's worth, you don't need a dedicated workspace for a vise.  I have one very similar to the attached and it only cost me $15.  It's attaches anywhere you have a small lip, is for light duty, and is good for more than just cutting.  Heck, you can use it to hold a camera for taking pics of your minis if you don't have a tripod.  Gotta be careful not to let your work get heated up too much from friction otherwise it'll melt its likeness into the jaw pads.  :-[

[Ratboy]

From whom?  I saw a #15 that fits a #2 handle, but haven't seen this one you mention.
That said, it's a nice tip.  I've been using a hobby saw, but it isn't the best on such small projects.

most craft stores that carry excel brand tools should have it or be able to get it. A well stocked hobby or FLGS. If that fails, excelblades.com is the manufacturers online store.

[Diamond Shark]

it also depends on how much metal you want to lose.
if you are cutting fine parts in  delicate areas , jewelers saw is king.
if i am cutting a mech in half , where i probably know i am going to re sculpt part of the area i cut through i will use the hobby saw just for saving time sake and not breaking too many jewelers blades .
Caz on here only uses a jewelers saw for everything, and takes his time making a cut, but he has this great thing called patience........

[noisenerd]

Gotta be careful not to let your work get heated up too much from friction otherwise it'll melt its likeness into the jaw pads.  :-[

A trick I learned as a machinist, doing delicate work with metal where marks on the workpiece were a no-no: put something (such as a thin piece of wood) between the vise jaw and the workpiece. Different purpose here, but would probably still work. For minis, I'm thinking one of those stir-sticks for paint might work... and one would probably be more than enough, cut in half or smaller. Most hardware stores give 'em away if you buy paint, you could possibly talk them out of one with some other purchase though.

[Cache]

A trick I learned as a machinist, doing delicate work with metal where marks on the workpiece were a no-no: put something (such as a thin piece of wood) between the vise jaw and the workpiece. Different purpose here, but would probably still work. For minis, I'm thinking one of those stir-sticks for paint might work... and one would probably be more than enough, cut in half or smaller. Most hardware stores give 'em away if you buy paint, you could possibly talk them out of one with some other purchase though.

The jaws have soft plastic/rubber pads.  The problem was that I was cutting close to the vise.  The metal heated up and melted into the padding.  It didn't wreck the mini at all, I just have a small set of holes in the pad that I have to be conscious of.

[noisenerd]

The jaws have soft plastic/rubber pads.  The problem was that I was cutting close to the vise.  The metal heated up and melted into the padding...

Yep, got that... in this case the wood would be to prevent said melting. Just a thought.

[mdauben]

The jaws have soft plastic/rubber pads.  The problem was that I was cutting close to the vise.  The metal heated up and melted into the padding.  It didn't wreck the mini at all, I just have a small set of holes in the pad that I have to be conscious of.

Really?  AFAK, the melting point of lead is over 600 degrees F, and I thought metal used in miniatures these days had a Xeven higher melting point.  You really got it that hot by sawing?   :o

[Cache]

Really?  AFAK, the melting point of lead is over 600 degrees F, and I thought metal used in miniatures these days had a Xeven higher melting point.  You really got it that hot by sawing?   :o

That was well under 600 degrees, but hot enough to melt the plastic... and burn my fingers (no blister, just a sore, red spot.)

[ActionButler]

Just to check back in, thanks again to everyone for all of the great answers.  For now, I'm giving the Xacto mini saw blades a try.  I've never actually tried to take a mini apart like this, so keep your fingers crossed.  I think I'll do a test run on an old Mad Dog that has already been sacrificed on the Altar of Spare Parts.