Painting/modeling supply help?

[ActionButler]

A few questions about modeling/ painting supplies...

1) Where do you guys get your hex bases from?  My FLGS doesn't carry hexes at the correct scale and the IWM packs are a little pricey. 

1.1) To anyone out there who just collects and paints minis without playing, do you use hex bases at all?  I've noticed lots of diorama pieces on Camospecs that use circular bases, which are readily available.
 
2) Epoxy and/or sculpting medium, what brand do you use and where do you get it from? 

3) Paint storage, do you keep your paints in the original pots or do you transfer them over to dropper bottles?  That is probably a crazy weird question, but I'm finally getting into using a palette, blending colors, and thinning paints.  It just seems like pouring my existing colors (all Testor and Citadel, atm) into plastic eye drop-esque bottles would help control ratios.

Thanks!

[GunjiNoKanrei]

1) There are several manufacturers selling plastic bases. Chessex comes to my mind. But maybe someone else can chime in here. I bought a huge lot of plastic bases at a convention a few years back and since I don't paint units they will last for a loooooong time ...

2) Where have you seen CSO diorama miniatures with round bases? This year most, if not all, minis were on hex bases. Either regular sized or the bigger sizes available from IWM. I know my minis were.

I 'only' collect miniatures and don't use them for play. Miniatures I post to CSO get based on a hex base though. It is the 'correct' base for the game and that's what we want to show on CSO. I do have a few miniatures that are based on display plinths. Usually miniatures I paint specifically for competitions get based this way (this one for example). We have been talking about showing miniatures not based on a hex base on CSO and you will probably see miniatures based on a plinth there soon.

Ultimately it is up to you how you want to base your miniatures. Round bases are not cheaper than hex bases. Maybe more readily available, but getting 100 hex bases from Chessex should solve this problem. If you want to play the game and don't necessarily want to play on a hex base, I recommend mounting the minis on hexes. Otherwise do what you feel looks best ;)

3) Green Stuff is arguably the most widely available epoxy putty. You should be able to get it in almost any hobby shop, online or offline. There is a huge variety of putties out there ... what do you want to do with it?

4) I keep them in their original bottles. If pressed I'd even say I prefer non-dropper bottles, but honestly I don't much care either way. Paint ratios are overrated in my opinion and for the most part not necessary.

[NeonKnight]

I purchase my HEX bases from this site:

http://www.proxiemodels.com/store2/index.php?route=product/product&path=20_59&product_id=59

The hexes are 30 mm (I think the Iron Wind one are approximately 31 or 32 mm.

Price is cheap, and the hexes are good.

As for circular bases...I only use them for minis where facing is not important...i.e. Infantry, which have no facing.

[klarg1]

I mostly use metal bases from IWM, but I also have a stash of the Chessex bases for smaller models and tanks. When I bought them, they were not on the main web site, you had to contact them and ask for them by name. They will give you a discount if you buy in packs of 50 or 100.

[cavingjan]

I use three different kinds. I use plastic recessed ones from chessex for most of my work. I ran out of my flat plastic hex bases from gale force 9. I now have some wood flat hex bases from litko. I think I will go back to the gale force ones as they are slightly bigger and easier to base minis on.

I do have a fair number of smaller square wooden bases from litko for single infantry.

[phlop]

I use Chessex almost exclusively for basing. Just picked up a pack of 50 at Gencon.
As far as pots or dropper bottles, don't care which. I use a toothpick to drop onto my pallette from the pot.
Green stuff is good for filling in those pieces that don't quite match up and for helping keep joints together when gluing. File off the excess after it dries.
All my minis are available to use on the table for gaming.

[Weirdo]

I'll add my support for Chessex bases as well. Perfect for Battletech use.

As far as paint goes, it's pots or nothing for me. A company that puts its paints in dropper bottles is a company that doesn't want my money.

[ActionButler]

Okay, wow, thanks for the speedy responses everyone! 

So, it sounds like that is a very definite "no" on the dropper bottles.

The chessex bases sound promising, I will take a look.

I asked about the epoxy because I would really like to start putting extra effort into finishing my bases.  Back when I was originally into Battletech, the best I could say was that I would sometimes flock the bases with railroad stuff.

One last question... basing battle armor.  Five to a base?  One figure per smaller, non-hex base?  Is there an official rule for how they need to modeled if I were to sit down to a game?

Again, thanks!

[Weirdo]

One last question... basing battle armor.  Five to a base?  One figure per smaller, non-hex base?

I vary. If I can fit a full squad/Point into a standard base(or reaper base when I have some to spare), I'll do it. Otherwise, I'll put a single trooper on a smaller base.

Is there an official rule for how they need to modeled if I were to sit down to a game?

Absolutely not. As long as you can ID them, and they fit more or less within a hex, you're fine. For examples of 'less', see the Archangel miniature, or Ares series. Note that I did not list 'must be an official Battletech miniature' in my criteria. That is not an omission.

[cavingjan]

I buy most of my paints in dropper bottles. Washes and the GW technicals are the only ones not in droppers and hey are in their original pots. Not worth the hassle to move.

For battle armor, I do one on a small square base. It is a preference thing. This give me a chance to put more than one in a hex without any problems. I may need to see about doing some hex bases that can accommodate the square hexes for alpha strike games but that is for another day.

[Shijima_3085]

I only grab a hex base if the mini will definitely not stand without one.

For BA, I've tried using hex bases results were... meh.  I've been digging pennies out of the coin bucket with some better results, especially with the slightly larger sculpts like the Shedu or others where I don't have deep stocks.

[klarg1]

Okay, wow, thanks for the speedy responses everyone! 

So, it sounds like that is a very definite "no" on the dropper bottles.

90% of my paints came in dropper bottles already.

I do have a couple of paints that I have transferred from pots to droppers. Usually, it has been because the lid of the ancient pots were disintegrating, and there was no other choice. (Nitro colour, I'm looking at you.  >:()

I asked about the epoxy because I would really like to start putting extra effort into finishing my bases.  Back when I was originally into Battletech, the best I could say was that I would sometimes flock the bases with railroad stuff.

One last question... basing battle armor.  Five to a base?  One figure per smaller, non-hex base?  Is there an official rule for how they need to modeled if I were to sit down to a game?

I like to squeeze a full squad onto a base, when I can, but sometimes it just doesn't fit right. Some of the modern, larger, BA is too big for that, unless you go to a larger base size. There is no rule saying you have to have them all there in the mini.

[ActionButler]

90% of my paints came in dropper bottles already.

I buy most of my paints in dropper bottles.

May I ask what brand(s) you use?  I opted for Citadel paints simply because they are what I used to use and I am reasonably familiar with the colors/consistencies/etc, but I am not opposed to trying out different lines.  I've heard good things about the P3 line (though I believe those are also in pots?) and mixed things about the Vallejo line(s). 

I've been digging pennies out of the coin bucket with some better results, especially with the slightly larger sculpts like the Shedu or others where I don't have deep stocks.

That is a really great idea, I'll have to give that a shot!

As long as you can ID them, and they fit more or less within a hex, you're fine. For examples of 'less', see the Archangel miniature, or Ares series. Note that I did not list 'must be an official Battletech miniature' in my criteria. That is not an omission.

I do see what you did there.  That answers a whole different set of questions raised by some of the kitbash topics that I've been browsing, thanks! 

[mdauben]

1) Where do you guys get your hex bases from?  My FLGS doesn't carry hexes at the correct scale and the IWM packs are a little pricey. 

There is a  company named Litko that does laser cut plywood bases.  They have a whole list of round, square and hexagonal sized and will also do custom.  I am pretty sure these are quite a bit less than IWM bases, especially if youu buy in bulk.

1.1) To anyone out there who just collects and paints minis without playing, do you use hex bases at all?  I've noticed lots of diorama pieces on Camospecs that use circular bases, which are readily available.

No reason to use the hex bases if you don't play.  Various round or square bases are readily available in metal, plastic or wood and would work just fine. 
 

2) Epoxy and/or sculpting medium, what brand do you use and where do you get it from?

I use the two part epoxy ribbon, knows commonly as "green stuff".  I think this is all pretty much the same, just bought and repackaged by various miniature companies.  You can even find it in bulk at hardware stores, as the original use for the stuff was for sealing plumbing.   

3) Paint storage, do you keep your paints in the original pots or do you transfer them over to dropper bottles?  That is probably a crazy weird question, but I'm finally getting into using a palette, blending colors, and thinning paints.  It just seems like pouring my existing colors (all Testor and Citadel, atm) into plastic eye drop-esque bottles would help control ratios.

I transitioned away from Citadel years ago, so most of my paints are already in dropper bottles (Vallejo and Reaper) so its not an issue for me.  I don't think I would bother with rebottling any existing paints, just consider buying dropper bottles as you run out and buy new paint.  The few things I do still have in regular jars (Citadel metalis and washes) I just keep in the original packaging.

One last question... basing battle armor.  Five to a base?  One figure per smaller, non-hex base?  Is there an official rule for how they need to modeled if I were to sit down to a game?

I like to base both BA and squishy infantry on standard hex bases, but thats just personal preference, there's nothing requiring it.  Lots of people individually base BA or use round bases (becuse the LOS issues for mechs that require hex bases don't matter to infantry).  So, whichever you think looks better. 

[klarg1]

May I ask what brand(s) you use?  I opted for Citadel paints simply because they are what I used to use and I am reasonably familiar with the colors/consistencies/etc, but I am not opposed to trying out different lines.  I've heard good things about the P3 line (though I believe those are also in pots?) and mixed things about the Vallejo line(s). 

I use about 80% Reaper paints, and maybe 18% Vallejo. The remaining 2% is "other". (P3, Nitro colour,very old GW and Ral Partha, etc.)

I like the Vallejo paints generally, but they do have quirks and idiosyncrasies. Some of them, especially greens and yellows separate easy, and need a lot of mixing for use. I'll post a little more detail when I am no longer posting from a phone.  :P

[Mohammed As`Zaman Bey]

1) Where do you guys get your hex bases from?  My FLGS doesn't carry hexes at the correct scale and the IWM packs are a little pricey. 

  For a while I used to cast my own using IWM bases and a sand casting set I use for casting jewelry. A cheaper, easier method would be to use FIMO, buy a small, cheap toaster oven and use FIMO to make a mold, then mass produce FIMO bases.

1.1) To anyone out there who just collects and paints minis without playing, do you use hex bases at all?  I've noticed lots of diorama pieces on Camospecs that use circular bases, which are readily available.

  Bases make decent miniature diorama displays -Decorate them as city streets, fields, etc., in micro-vignettes. They don't even have to be traditional bases.
 

2) Epoxy and/or sculpting medium, what brand do you use and where do you get it from? 

I just go to the local discount or hardware store.

3) Paint storage, do you keep your paints in the original pots or do you transfer them over to dropper bottles?  That is probably a crazy weird question, but I'm finally getting into using a palette, blending colors, and thinning paints.  It just seems like pouring my existing colors (all Testor and Citadel, atm) into plastic eye drop-esque bottles would help control ratios.

  I still have tube acrylics I bought in the early 1980s. I only use new containers when I mix custom colors.

[ActionButler]

New question, guys (though, please, keep answers to the initial questions rolling in.  your opinions have been VERY helpful)...

What do you guys do about minis that have sculpted bases or metal slabs cast to the feet?  Do you base them and just mold green stuff around the plate?  Do you cut the plate off somehow?

[GunjiNoKanrei]

What do you guys do about minis that have sculpted bases or metal slabs cast to the feet?  Do you base them and just mold green stuff around the plate?  Do you cut the plate off somehow?

That depends. If I want to repose the miniature or do an elaborate base I cut off the plate, or at least trim away the excess. Otherwise I just glue it on a hex, building up the terrain around it.

All in all those integrated bases are a pain to work with and by far the worst thing about Battletech miniatures in my opinion. Luckily many of the newer sculpts are not attached to a base, but come with separate legs.

[Weirdo]

Like Gunji, I tend to leave the plate alone unless a repose requires it, or if the plate is too big to fit in a hex base. All other cases, I just glue it into the base, use sand and superglue to fill in the gaps, and call it done.

[ActionButler]

Cool, so no plate-removal unless necessary.  As it stands, I am working with a lot of my older minis right now, which is why I asked.  I can probably use some epoxy to either shape around the plate or over it entirely.  That may take some practice...

I think I'll give the Litko hexes a try since their site offers pretty much everything I need to get started. 

Anyway, thanks again for the responses, guys.  You've all been a ton of help.

[Mohammed As`Zaman Bey]

What do you guys do about minis that have sculpted bases or metal slabs cast to the feet?

  Unless I plan a major reposing project, I leave slab bases alone. With plastic minis, I'll chop the molded base and use a lead/pewter base for stability.
 

Do you base them and just mold green stuff around the plate?  Do you cut the plate off somehow?

I build up terrain over and around a slab base, sometimes I use wood putty, sometimes I just fill with liquid wood glue.

[BirdofPrey]

Taking the the built in base of of the metal minis minis is way more trouble than it's worth if you don't have any specific reason that requires you to do so (mainly reposing), and some also seem to be molded up on the foot a little bit making it that much more difficult.  The plastic minis in the box set, on the other hand seem reasonably straightforward to remove from the base since it's easier to cut.

[Weirdo]

I don't bother removing the base from my plastics. I see it as any other hex base(in fact superior to normal bases since you can still see the hex's terrain under the mini), so the only thing I'll do will be to fill in the hollow space underneath(on the new ones) with sand and glue for more weight and stability.

[Ratboy]

A few questions about modeling/ painting supplies...

1) Where do you guys get your hex bases from?  My FLGS doesn't carry hexes at the correct scale and the IWM packs are a little pricey. 

I use both IWM and Litko clear acrylic hex bases (larger sizes for larger tanks/mechs)

2) Epoxy and/or sculpting medium, what brand do you use and where do you get it from? 

If you are using "Green stuff", it doesn't matter. It's all made by the same company (Polymeric Systems Inc).

3) Paint storage, do you keep your paints in the original pots or do you transfer them over to dropper bottles?  That is probably a crazy weird question, but I'm finally getting into using a palette, blending colors, and thinning paints.  It just seems like pouring my existing colors (all Testor and Citadel, atm) into plastic eye drop-esque bottles would help control ratios.

Usually I leave it in the original pot. The previous version of GW paints had a bad seal between the cap and jar (temperature sensitive) and caused the paints to dry out quickly. Those I used to re-pot. If I mix  a custom color and I know I'm going to use it a lot (base-coating, terrain, etc) I will make a new jar of the custom color.