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Author Topic: Litko Acrylic Bases  (Read 435 times)

Colt Ward

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Litko Acrylic Bases
« on: 07 February 2019, 22:24:56 »
Got some of these in to try, 3mm thick . . . ordered some of the cheaper wooden ones in that size and the 1.5mm too to test out.  The 1.5mm are too thin I think for mechs but maybe I will use it to base vehicles to give them a look . . . or terrain piece.

But for the acrylic bases . . . how do you prepare them for minis?  I was wondering if I should scratch or groove the base to glue mech's feet.  Some of them that are solid pieces or on the little bases I have thought about drilling through the acrylic and into the base/feet for a better connection.

What do you do?
Colt Ward

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worktroll

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Re: Litko Acrylic Bases
« Reply #1 on: 07 February 2019, 22:35:51 »
What glue are you using?

I keep a tube of KwikGrip/Tarzan's Grip/general purpose hardware glue around just for sticking minis to bases. This needs overnight to dry, but bonds well - has never failed me.

If you're using superglue, then yes, I'd recommend scratching for more surface contact area.

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Colt Ward

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Re: Litko Acrylic Bases
« Reply #2 on: 07 February 2019, 23:11:03 »
I generally use the same thing I use for my minis, Gale Force 9's superglue.  But I am open to getting something specifically for it . . . and if you recommend something b/c of the metal/acrylic bonding, if it is better to score it even with a specialist product I would be doing that when needed.  I have had a few pop off my home made bases.
« Last Edit: 08 February 2019, 13:50:34 by Colt Ward »
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Joel47

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Re: Litko Acrylic Bases
« Reply #3 on: 13 February 2019, 12:28:37 »
I use Litko's thick plywood for mechs. But I've done heavy stuff on acrylic, and if you don't need the bases to remain clear and shiny the answer is two steps:
  • Sand surface with coarse grit. If you really want to be sure, drill some holes where they'll be hidden by the mech -- that will create adhesive "keys" that lock it in place. I suppose if you wanted clear bases you could skip the sanding and just go with the holes, but I haven't tested that.
  • Epoxy (2-part, 5-minute). I use epoxy for anything load-bearing anyway, because it's internally stronger than cyanoacrylate (super glue). Fresh (hasn't been sitting on a shelf for a year) thin CA is amazingly strong at joining two flat surfaces, but once you start making it "gap-filling," epoxy wins (if you aren't in a hurry).

Colt Ward

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Re: Litko Acrylic Bases
« Reply #4 on: 13 February 2019, 13:00:00 »
Yeah, I was wanting to use it for the Scylla and a few other bases.  I bought the 3mm thick wood ones to experiment with mechs as well though I guess superglue and the Lance Pack mechs would also work for the acrylic bases if I want to cut them off the half hexes.  I have a 2 part epoxy but I am not sure how good it is- I did not have the best result when I tried it before.
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Re: Litko Acrylic Bases
« Reply #5 on: 25 February 2019, 11:53:43 »
Super glue will frost acrylic. For the plastic lance pack mechs you could try an acrylic cement (it chemically melts the acrylic so the join is more of a weld), but I don't know if the two types of plastic (acrylic and what the lance pack mechs are made of) are compatible with the same glue.

If you're having trouble with epoxy, it may be old, or you just didn't mix equal parts thoroughly enough.

packhntr

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Re: Litko Acrylic Bases
« Reply #6 on: 02 April 2019, 09:33:56 »
Has anyone tried Shoe Goo (or it's numerous other named version...goop..etc).  Stuff sticks anything to anything. Dries clear, hold very very well to anything I have put it on (including polycarbonite (lexan).
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Colt Ward

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Re: Litko Acrylic Bases
« Reply #7 on: 02 April 2019, 10:27:51 »
I scored the top of the base with the Xacto and glued down the WVR-3R . . . did not cause any change in how the base looked, but I will be painting the base and flocking it as part of experimenting.  I might also in the future just score the area and leave it clear so the area beneath can be seen, maybe paint the forward edge a bright color.  Seeing through the base was different.
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worktroll

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Re: Litko Acrylic Bases
« Reply #8 on: 02 April 2019, 14:39:38 »
Is that one of the new box set minis? Are there bases flat underneath, or recessed (like previous box set plastics)?

One reason I like the lipped hexes (I get plastic ones from RPE) is that you can then fill in around the base to get a (more or less) level top. Some minis have very thick bases, and looks like they're standing on a hillock ;)

W.
* No, FASA wasn't big on errata - ColBosch
* The Housebook series is from the 80's and is the foundation of Btech, the 80's heart wrapped in heavy metal that beats to this day - Sigma
* To sum it up: FASAnomics: By Cthulhu, for Cthulhu - Moonsword
* Because Battletech is a conspiracy by Habsburg & Bourbon pretenders - MadCapellan
* The Hellbringer is cool, either way. It's not cool because it's bad, it's cool because it's bad with balls - Nightsky
* It was a glorious time for people who felt that we didn't have enough Marauder variants - HABeas2, re "Empires Aflame"

Weirdo

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Re: Litko Acrylic Bases
« Reply #9 on: 02 April 2019, 14:43:37 »
Is that one of the new box set minis? Are there bases flat underneath, or recessed (like previous box set plastics)?

The new plastics have a large recess in the bottom. I like it, because I always fill in any such recesses with sand/glue. Makes them bottom heavy and stable. :)
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Colt Ward

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Re: Litko Acrylic Bases
« Reply #10 on: 02 April 2019, 14:44:20 »
No, the WVR-3R is the Primitive Wolverine from IWM, I cannot remember if it was a Con exclusive or not- I got mine last year?  year before? and had not based it.  While it could stand easily with the pose I had it was not entirely stable so I used the base to stop it tipping over if the table got bumped bad enough.

The new box set minis I do not expect to need to base since I would be satisfied with how they come.  I will be doing what Weirdo says though on the new minis.
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Re: Litko Acrylic Bases
« Reply #11 on: 02 April 2019, 23:28:38 »
the WVR-1R/3R is definitely not a con exclusive as i have one and i will probably never get close to a con unless i accidentally take the wrong flight.