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Author Topic: CSO paint-along with Gunji  (Read 170008 times)

GunjiNoKanrei

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #180 on: 14 November 2013, 17:32:23 »
Sorry its been so long since my last post.  Been busy.  Thanks for the shading tips Gunji.  Appreciate the detail you provided in more than a few previous posts.  Unless Gunji recommends a few things I'm feeling I'm done.  The cockpit needs a bit more work along with the PPC barrel (which I like to leave black) but otherwise I'm ready to move to a batch of Wolves I'm been trying to finish up.
I am glad and excited you saw the project through. I really like your BattleMaster :) I do have a few suggestions, but the most important part is that you are happy.
I'd re-line some of those panel lines and give the grey areas another black wash to add more definition and get clean(er) separations between different colored areas. I'd also work on the base a little more. Nothing difficult or time consuming, but just a few washes of green and brown to add some variety and maybe a patch or two of static grass to break up the empty space and add interest.
I assume you went light on the weathering on purpose? What you have done on the CT looks very good. If you want to give it another shot (on the BattleMaster or on another mini) I suggest to also add some chips around the feet as this is where arguably the most wear and tear occurs.
Again, very nice work - inspired by the paint-along, but with your own touch :)

I really liked the paint along and would like to see more of them.  I learned a lot about transparency.  Although I had begun to use this technique a tad before the paint-along, it really helped me get a better handle on it, especially with using contrasting colors. 
Glad you could take something away from the paint-along. As you get more comfortable with the technique you will notice that your application gets much smoother.
Contrasting or complimentary colors often get overlooked or only used as an accent color, but using them for shades and lights can produce very interesting results.

My main suggestion to improve the process is to give a months notice of the mini to be painted and a list of the paints to be used.  I would have gladly picked up Pericsopes and a few of the other colors used in advance to make sure I was getting more similar results.
Yes, you definitely have a point there. i will take this to heart if I get the chance to do another paint-along. I guess SavageCoyote is off to a better start here ;)

Oh.  I would also like to see what you CSO guys use for the photography.  What lighting, what camera, what camera settings, etc.  This has been the most frustrating aspect to me.  I have a feeling I'm plagued with poor lighting, a poor camera and a total lack of any ability to take a decent picture of a miniature.  That is, see below.
The next time I photograph a mini I can snap a few pictures of my setup and post them along with camera settings. No problem.

Thanks again!
Thank you for following the paint-along and your feedback :)

Dragon41673

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #181 on: 14 November 2013, 17:37:15 »
Gunji,

Any idea when you will be posting this to CSO for the paint along part? I wanted to join in as I have a Republic of the Sphere Republic Standing Guard unit I want to paint up...but I've been sidelined by a herniated disc...so it's going to be some time before I get to this. So I figured I would just book mark the CSO post (unless you think this will be more detailed...which it just might be), and print out the steps to save for later.

Thanks & awesome job!!!
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GunjiNoKanrei

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #182 on: 14 November 2013, 17:51:42 »
Gunji,

Any idea when you will be posting this to CSO for the paint along part? I wanted to join in as I have a Republic of the Sphere Republic Standing Guard unit I want to paint up...but I've been sidelined by a herniated disc...so it's going to be some time before I get to this. So I figured I would just book mark the CSO post (unless you think this will be more detailed...which it just might be), and print out the steps to save for later.
I will definitely collect the info and steps from here and make it an article for CSO. The best ETA I can give you right now is 'before 2013 is over' though  :-\

Thanks & awesome job!!!
Thanks!

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #183 on: 14 November 2013, 17:53:16 »
I will definitely collect the info and steps from here and make it an article for CSO. The best ETA I can give you right now is 'before 2013 is over' though  :-\
Thanks!

Plenty of time...I don't think I'll be back to painting until early January if the shots in my spine work. If I have to have surgery...then it's February at least!

Thanks Gunji!
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serrate

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #184 on: 29 November 2013, 22:38:39 »
All done I think, just need to take some pics, and apply any improvements that you suggest. Comments below:

Quote
I must admit I hadn't anticipated someone trying the chipping on metallics :-[ It works a little different there, at least that's my observation. Painting over the chips with a metallic paint, no matter how thin, is probably not going to work as the metallic pigments might ruin any illusion of depth we are trying to create. Also the highlights under the chips should be done with a very bright metallic paint as should be scratches. Overall my opinion is that chips and scratches on metallic surface are more successful in darkly shaded areas, because I think they profit from the flat/shiny contrast there.

Alright, on the AC barrel, I covered back over the asterisk marks and tried a new technique (for me) of representing extremely overheated metal. I like how it turned out, so I'm not going to pursue adding more damage to it. Used a successive series of washes, and then added a highlight line of silver, and finally a thin line of pearl metallic.

On the other hand, I added damage to the metallic surfaces of the other (LA, LT) barrels and followed your suggestions, highlighting the chips with silver.

Quote
What I mean is that you need some very small chips surrounding the big ones. Or you can even try to break up the bigger chips with the basecolor or by painting a few 'fake' highlights inside them.

I made another attempt with the sponge technique, and I think it improved things a bit. It added some smaller damage, although it definitely looks better on the lighter areas. I also painted some basecolor back into some of the larger chips to break them up a little.

Quote
Quote
3) Chips #2: I'd like to add a bright silver as a highlight to a few spots, especially where those chips overlap a corner. This might also give them the effect of more recent damage. Thoughts?
Try it out, see what happens. My limited experiments with chipping and using metallic paints were not to my liking, but this doesn't mean it can't look good. Maybe this is a step to developing your own method and adds a whole new dimension to the effect :)

Ok, I tried this, but it was on such small surfaces and corners that it's very difficult to even see. Regardless, I know it's there, and that's good enough. :)

Quote
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4) Rear jump jet exhaust: According to the record sheet, the mech has 2 JJ's in each leg, and 1 on the torso. While I'm unsure of what exactly is modeled as JJ's on the legs, the rear torso JJ is very obvious and I think the paint underneath it should show weathering, perhaps scorching or at least some soot. I could do this with a very light targeted black drybrush, but I wanted to see if you had a better suggestion.
Yes, a targeted, careful drybrush should do the trick. My only concern would be that the result looks too flat. Maybe a *very* light drybrush with a metallic paint or light grey after the black would look good.
Alternatively you could try more of a stippling technique. Something completely different would be pigments. Black or dark metallic pigments stippled or rubbed on.

So, the issue with this, is that the main JJ is in the middle of the back, and he's been modified to be torso-twisting. Clearly, he could apply JJ's while twisting in either direction, and to represent that I would've had to add this weathering to the entire back half of the mech, possibly even the upper legs. I was unwilling to commit to what would essentially be covering a lot of paint I was happy with, with black dry-brush. Instead, I just applied a minimum of a dry-brush to the part of his back directly underneath the JJ, which had the added benefit of adding some weathering to the warning decal. I included a very light metallic element to this dry-brush as well. It's subtle, and likely to only be seen when the mini is held in the hand. If you think I should add more of this, let me know.

Quote
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6) Actuators/joints: These just seem too bright. I think I need to do something to give them a more oily metal look. Maybe a brown wash, or a light layer of Tamiya Smoke.
Hmm, I'd say you either didn't shade enough or applied too strong highlights. Tamiya Smoke is a grey color, isn't it? It might work, but I'd be worried about the shine those Tamyia clear colors have.
I would shade the metallics again. Build up flat shadows with black and brown colors, building up the intensity with successive washes. This way you can nicely control how wide and bright your highlights are. Treat bright metallics just as you would bright highlight color. I'd use a bright silver only for selected hotspots.

I worked on deepening the shadows, and also applied a Nuln Oil wash that really knocked down those highlights. The highlights still show up, it's just not as bright, but let me know what you think.

Step 17: After reworking some of the weathering, I moved on to this step. Made absolutely certain my paint was thin and transparent and reglazed areas where I had applied weathering (scratches or chips). I used a Ceramcoat Antique White for final hotspots, and then took another look at all the chips, and added a bit of touch-up here and there.

Step 18: Skipped this step on this mech. I only had one potential black area, the rear of the LA barrel, but I was happy with the look it had, so I left it. I'm willing to go back and add this though if you think it needs it.

Step 19: I applied the rust technique to a couple small areas around the feet, and down the inside of the right lower leg area. These are very hard to spot. I also used this on both sides of the LA barrel to greater effect. I'm interested to see if you think I overdid, or under-did, this.

Step 20: I don't have a large collection of different pigments, so I mainly worked with washes and drybrushing. Worked over the rocks with various shades of gray, and the ground with earthy colors. I kept the colors within the skid trench a little darker and more wet-looking. Tufts were added, and painted with quite a bit of yellow color to knock down the bright green some. A little green flock to a couple areas was added as well. Grass and mud added to the raised left foot. The tufts seemed pretty tall, so I trimmed them down some.

I had a shallow depression that could potentially hold water, but I have no water effects. Started by painting in some blue and green washes. Then I covered that with a couple layers of white glue. Unfortunately that shrank a lot, so I didn't end up with the volume I wanted. I washed it a couple more times, and finished it off with some gloss varnish. Not too thrilled with it, but not sure if I should keep working on it.

Step 21: I've only got one pigment (Secret Weapon Pigments' Terracotta Earth), so I applied it sparingly to the earth portions of the base, and around the feet as well. Pigments need to be moved to the top of my 'Tools to add' list.

Alright, I'm adding some pics below, but these are just quick pics I took while much was still WiP. I'm hoping to provide better quality pics by tomorrow, but it might have to wait until Sunday.




serrate

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #185 on: 30 November 2013, 13:46:56 »
Alrighty, completed pics:






Gunji, thanks for doing this. I really learned a lot and enjoyed practicing some new techniques.

edit: Sorry about the yellow'ish pics. I was trying to get better photos using my camera instead of my cell, but it still needs a lot of work. I don't have time this morning, but I'll work these pics over in Gimp some more this afternoon and try to improve them. Or possibly just re-shoot entirely.
« Last Edit: 01 December 2013, 11:37:08 by serrate »

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #186 on: 30 November 2013, 14:37:33 »
Very well done. I think in my opinion, I'd prefer a little tweaking away from the yellow cast of the images, but you may simply prefer a "sunset" appearance. Regardless, you've made a very beautiful model.
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GunjiNoKanrei

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #187 on: 10 December 2013, 05:13:04 »
Sorry for the very slow reply. Busy times at the moment ...

Thanks for seeing this through. The Enforcer III looks great in my opinion.

Alright, on the AC barrel, I covered back over the asterisk marks and tried a new technique (for me) of representing extremely overheated metal. I like how it turned out, so I'm not going to pursue adding more damage to it. Used a successive series of washes, and then added a highlight line of silver, and finally a thin line of pearl metallic.
Yes, this does look very good. Personally I would have kept the heat marks smaller and closer to the end of the barrel. But that's just my preference ;)

On the other hand, I added damage to the metallic surfaces of the other (LA, LT) barrels and followed your suggestions, highlighting the chips with silver.

I made another attempt with the sponge technique, and I think it improved things a bit. It added some smaller damage, although it definitely looks better on the lighter areas. I also painted some basecolor back into some of the larger chips to break them up a little.

Ok, I tried this, but it was on such small surfaces and corners that it's very difficult to even see. Regardless, I know it's there, and that's good enough. :)
The chipping is difficult to see in the pictures, but as far as I can tell you have the basics down. The chips around the feet (and on the LA) look a little flat. Judging by the pictures I think you used too much light brown inside the chips. When adding brown (rust) to the chips a light touch is necessary. You are not necessarily looking for coverage, but just a hint of color. Yes, this is nit-picking and yes, the chips are very small, but with a little practice this is easy and (relatively) fast to do, even if you have to go a little back and forth between colors (e.g. bring back some of the black/first chipping color when the rust or the highlight gets too big).

So, the issue with this, is that the main JJ is in the middle of the back, and he's been modified to be torso-twisting. Clearly, he could apply JJ's while twisting in either direction, and to represent that I would've had to add this weathering to the entire back half of the mech, possibly even the upper legs. I was unwilling to commit to what would essentially be covering a lot of paint I was happy with, with black dry-brush. Instead, I just applied a minimum of a dry-brush to the part of his back directly underneath the JJ, which had the added benefit of adding some weathering to the warning decal. I included a very light metallic element to this dry-brush as well. It's subtle, and likely to only be seen when the mini is held in the hand. If you think I should add more of this, let me know.
I agree with your less-is-more approach. Weathering effects of all kind can easily be overdone and just look messy. Sure, a good technique is important, but knowing when to stop is equally important.

I worked on deepening the shadows, and also applied a Nuln Oil wash that really knocked down those highlights. The highlights still show up, it's just not as bright, but let me know what you think.
Well done. You could try to paint a few, very small hotspots with a bright silver, but metallics are always difficult to judge on pictures. If you are happy with the shadows and the lights (and I'd say you should be), stop here and don't do anything else.

Step 19: I applied the rust technique to a couple small areas around the feet, and down the inside of the right lower leg area. These are very hard to spot. I also used this on both sides of the LA barrel to greater effect. I'm interested to see if you think I overdid, or under-did, this.
See my comment above. So I think you overdid it. At least directly inside the chips.

Step 20: I don't have a large collection of different pigments, so I mainly worked with washes and drybrushing. Worked over the rocks with various shades of gray, and the ground with earthy colors. I kept the colors within the skid trench a little darker and more wet-looking. Tufts were added, and painted with quite a bit of yellow color to knock down the bright green some. A little green flock to a couple areas was added as well. Grass and mud added to the raised left foot. The tufts seemed pretty tall, so I trimmed them down some.

I had a shallow depression that could potentially hold water, but I have no water effects. Started by painting in some blue and green washes. Then I covered that with a couple layers of white glue. Unfortunately that shrank a lot, so I didn't end up with the volume I wanted. I washed it a couple more times, and finished it off with some gloss varnish. Not too thrilled with it, but not sure if I should keep working on it.
Hmm, hard to see in the pictures. If you think you can fill the groove with one or two more applications of white glue I'd say go for it. But white glus (and Vallejo water effects) will always have some shrinkage. In my experience water effects is much worse though.

Again sorry for my late reply to your finished Mech. Glad to hear you liked the paint-along though :) Thanks for hanging in there :)

Anything I could or should do different if I get the chance for another paint-along? Anything I can improve?


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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #188 on: 19 December 2013, 10:52:50 »
Oh.  I would also like to see what you CSO guys use for the photography.  What lighting, what camera, what camera settings, etc.  This has been the most frustrating aspect to me.  I have a feeling I'm plagued with poor lighting, a poor camera and a total lack of any ability to take a decent picture of a miniature.  That is, see below.
So, better late than never ... attached is a picture of my current photo setup. When not taking pictures for CSO I simply replace the terrain board with a printed background of my choice (grey, black, white, gradient, ...). I use three lamps with daylight bulbs, two at an angle from the front/sides and one from above (this is my painting lamp). To diffuse the light I wrap white sandwich or baking paper around the lamps. Diffusing the lights helps to avoid glare spots.
My camera settings depend on the background, but some settings I rarely change are:
- white balance set to daylight
- aperture f/13
- ISO 100 (as low as possible)
- timer set to a two second delay
Exposure depends on the background, but I usually go for +-0, except when using a black background (here I am still experimenting, but have had the best results so far with -2). I don't use macro mode/objective. Shutterspeed is calculated by the camera according to the setting (exposure), but it often lands around 1/6s (a tripod is a must).

Hope that helps :)

serrate

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #189 on: 20 December 2013, 10:04:53 »

The chipping is difficult to see in the pictures, but as far as I can tell you have the basics down. The chips around the feet (and on the LA) look a little flat. Judging by the pictures I think you used too much light brown inside the chips. When adding brown (rust) to the chips a light touch is necessary. You are not necessarily looking for coverage, but just a hint of color. Yes, this is nit-picking and yes, the chips are very small, but with a little practice this is easy and (relatively) fast to do, even if you have to go a little back and forth between colors (e.g. bring back some of the black/first chipping color when the rust or the highlight gets too big).

See my comment above. So I think you overdid it. At least directly inside the chips.

Hmm, hard to see in the pictures. If you think you can fill the groove with one or two more applications of white glue I'd say go for it. But white glus (and Vallejo water effects) will always have some shrinkage. In my experience water effects is much worse though.

Still working on this Gunji. I've added more glue to the pool, and even expanded it slightly to include a runoff over a low spot, as if it were a natural spring.

On the rust, do you think it was overdone in all places, or where it was the heaviest on the LA barrel?

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #190 on: 20 December 2013, 10:35:59 »
I just wanted to say that I have really gotten a lot out of this format, especially from Serrate's questions and answers. Seeing the scheme evolve with so many photos really helped me understand.

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #191 on: 20 January 2014, 07:02:51 »
Considering this is a long over due update of my republic marauder here we go. I decided to go back over the green parts with more of an olive drab green like I should have done in the first place. next is to rewash the newly painted green sections. I think this new green looks better than the previous on I had.
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GunjiNoKanrei

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #192 on: 30 January 2014, 04:59:19 »
Sorry, I totally missed that there a new replies to this thread. Either the "notify of new replies" didn't work, got stuck in my spam folder or I simply missed it ... :(

Anyway ...

On the rust, do you think it was overdone in all places, or where it was the heaviest on the LA barrel?
LA barrel and the feet. Judging by the pictures those are the places that jump out to me.

Considering this is a long over due update of my republic marauder here we go. I decided to go back over the green parts with more of an olive drab green like I should have done in the first place. next is to rewash the newly painted green sections. I think this new green looks better than the previous on I had.
Glad to see you are still hanging in there :) I agree, the new green looks like a better fit for the Republic Standing Guard. Looking forward to your next steps and I promise a more timely reply ... ;)

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #193 on: 02 February 2014, 00:19:33 »


I know the base is a little sparse but I'm happy with the results.

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #194 on: 02 February 2014, 07:35:14 »
I know the base is a little sparse but I'm happy with the results.

Mike

As you should be, looks good.  O0
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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #195 on: 02 February 2014, 17:33:19 »


I know the base is a little sparse but I'm happy with the results.

Mike

Looks good man
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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #196 on: 03 February 2014, 13:44:10 »
Wayfarer, that really looks excellent!

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #197 on: 03 February 2014, 18:21:11 »
Agreed, looks very very nice! The contrast on the shoulders between light and shadow is very well done.  O0

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #198 on: 06 February 2014, 11:37:58 »
Mike, thanks for the updated picture. The BattleMaster looks great and your pictures are much better too!

Apart from the base you could improve the overall contrast. Notice how the red parts seem to have much more contrast than the green parts. Some darker shading and stronger highlights on the green parts would even this out and create a more consistent picture. This is minor though and truly nit-picking. It is also something I am often struggling with myself. But maybe something to keep in mind the next time.

Thanks for following :)

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #199 on: 07 June 2014, 10:56:12 »
Ok, it's a long time back. But finally i managed to come back to this great project. Finished up the Atlas II until step 14 i think. Overall i'm happy with the result so far.
I will not go for much weathering because on the mostly small Panels of this mech i think it will become more difficult. Will test that on another mech first before i ruin this one.
So i have to go for the final shadowing and highlighting. Including the decals. But  ^-^
When i paint over decals in the past the Color always flows under the decals. At least when i try thiny layers. Maybe i haven't seen an Explanation here or it is not mentioned yet. What do i wrong ?
Now as you have pointed out the missing shadows on decals and going so far with that mech while learning so much ... i can't leave them now as they are.  >:(
Sorry for the bad Pictures. I hope the Progress can be seen.

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #200 on: 08 June 2014, 01:38:48 »
Seems like you guys obtained improvement. O0


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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #201 on: 09 June 2014, 14:50:31 »
I think that looks amazing dude....
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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #202 on: 09 June 2014, 15:41:38 »
Hey Wotan, thanks for hanging in there :) I will reply at length tomorrow, but the kids refuse to sleep thanks to the thunderstorm raging outside. No time for an in depth reply, but I like what I am seeing.

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #203 on: 12 June 2014, 10:55:37 »
Ok, finally ... I really like the work you have done so far on the Atlas. While I am not very good at painting highlights as if the light comes from a fixed lightsource and don't focus on this as much as I probably should, I think your highlighting would benefit a lot if you shaped the highlights a bit. Your highlights are very strong all around panels and surface. Give them some direction by highlighting panels that are oriented towards the ground less than panels oriented to the sky. You do this in some spots, but not consequent enough. This is most obvious on the back of the lower legs. Also the front torso stands out to me.
As I said, I don't follow those principles 100% accurately myself, but I do always try to "shape" my highlights. Stronger highlights on upper panels, stronger highlights on the torso, stronger highlights the closer you get to the head. Small things like this help the overall appearance a lot.

Your technique looks good. Areas you could work on is smoother transitions (some of the blue shadows are relatively harsh) and maybe finer highlights (there a very few spots where your brush control slipped, resulting in a very broad or wobbly highlight). Both of those things get better with practice and become easier the more used you get to painting with very thin paint. So this is really nit-picking from me at this point ;)

I can't really offer you a solution for your problem with paint running under decals as I have never experienced this myself. Here is how I apply decals: I don't prepare the surface where the decal goes in any way, just soak the decal in water and place it with the help of a brush. When I am happy with the placement and orientation I carefully remove excess water with a clean brush and liberally apply some decal softening solution (I use Mr Mark Softer). I make sure the softer is completely dry before continuing to paint. Applying decals often is my last step before calling it a day.

Regarding your problem three things come to my mind: is the decal still wet? did the decal set completely? just how much paint/fluid do you have on the brush when painting?

Thanks for still following! I am already looking forward to your next steps :)

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #204 on: 15 June 2014, 12:39:21 »
One problem I have had before is when trying to do even simple light-source highlighting, is that I'll keep doing small corrective tweaks and before I know it I've overdone it and the highlights look garish and messy like a model with way too much makeup.

1. Is there a reasonably objective way to stop yourself from doing that?

2. Would it be better sometimes (especially if your skill isn't up to the task yet) to let the good job stand and not try for perfection?
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GunjiNoKanrei

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #205 on: 16 June 2014, 04:23:12 »
One problem I have had before is when trying to do even simple light-source highlighting, is that I'll keep doing small corrective tweaks and before I know it I've overdone it and the highlights look garish and messy like a model with way too much makeup.

1. Is there a reasonably objective way to stop yourself from doing that?
Hmm, that's a tough one. What I find very helpful is to closely inspect my painting all the time. Look at the miniature under different lights (painting light, daylight, ambient light, ...). I also find it very helpful to look at the results of last nights paint session with fresh eyes the next morning. More than once this made me repaint or tweak areas I thought were finished.
If you really reach this point where you feel highlights are overdone you can easily tone them done again. Hit the area with a controlled wash or some glazes of a mid-tone.

2. Would it be better sometimes (especially if your skill isn't up to the task yet) to let the good job stand and not try for perfection?
What is this perfection you speak of? Seriously though, yes, stop when you are happy with the result. There is no "correct stage" you have to achieve. Honestly, I don't have a single miniature where I don't think "man, I could/should have done so much more". Sometimes you just have to stop and move on.
Nothing wrong with stopping when you have reached a stage you are happy with. But, keep in mind what you would have liked to try. Write it down. And come back to it on later miniatures. The only way to improve is to push past your comfort zone.

KhanPhelanWard

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #206 on: 16 March 2015, 21:31:55 »
I know that it've been a rime since Gunji created the post but i want to try it.

First, I have to say that I don't touch a brush since two or three years ago. And I have only painted about 20 minis so this years have rusty my skills..

Although, I'll do my best.

I'm going to paint to minis at a time, one for god and davion and the other for boom. At this point I prefer notto show the scheme or the mini, but some pics will be on the road.

Regards.
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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #207 on: 18 March 2015, 08:03:30 »
What is this perfection you speak of? Seriously though, yes, stop when you are happy with the result. There is no "correct stage" you have to achieve. Honestly, I don't have a single miniature where I don't think "man, I could/should have done so much more". Sometimes you just have to stop and move on.

There is a fine line between trying to do the best mini possible, and being obsessive. Don't cross that line.
Know when to say "Frack it! That's Good enough!"  That was a very hard lesson to learn on my part, and,
I suspect, for many of us who are trying to improve our paint-craft.
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serrate

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #208 on: 20 March 2015, 09:56:11 »
There is a fine line between trying to do the best mini possible, and being obsessive. Don't cross that line.
Know when to say "Frack it! That's Good enough!"  That was a very hard lesson to learn on my part, and,
I suspect, for many of us who are trying to improve our paint-craft.

This is so true, and excellent advice. There is a fine line between striving to make regular progress, and becoming so self-critical that nothing is ever "finished". It's an easy line to cross.

GunjiNoKanrei

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Re: CSO paint-along with Gunji
« Reply #209 on: 20 March 2015, 16:30:29 »
Good to see that the thread is still useful for some :)

At this point I prefer notto show the scheme or the mini, but some pics will be on the road.
If you have questions or are looking for feedback, but don't want to show the pictures here, feel free to drop me a PM anytime.

 

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