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Author Topic: Hellbringer M  (Read 453 times)

Draco

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Hellbringer M
« on: 07 September 2021, 23:35:43 »
This is one I'd wanted to do ever since the new Tukayyid book came out. It's actually been finished for some time but I hadn't gotten around to getting pictures until recently. I particularly liked the nod to the original Loki art in the Battle History section so I made sure to incorporate the "hip-mounted missiles" in my version.

worktroll

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Re: Hellbringer M
« Reply #1 on: 08 September 2021, 03:54:46 »
Falcon hard, Draco - that's a fine-looking Delta bird there! And the yellows are really bright, and it's all very clean.

Mind walking us through your painting process?
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Mecha82

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Re: Hellbringer M
« Reply #2 on: 08 September 2021, 06:51:22 »
Sweet! :thumbsup:
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jimdigris

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Re: Hellbringer M
« Reply #3 on: 08 September 2021, 07:49:56 »
 :thumbsup:

Luciora

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Re: Hellbringer M
« Reply #4 on: 08 September 2021, 07:53:13 »
Very nice!

Neo-Tanuki

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Re: Hellbringer M
« Reply #5 on: 08 September 2021, 09:21:54 »
Excellent work on your conversion!

Colt Ward

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Re: Hellbringer M
« Reply #6 on: 09 September 2021, 13:29:04 »
So the SRM6 on the CT was split to the edges of the torso?  I am asking b/c I am thinking of converting a Hellbringer Prime into the M.  What did you use for the different arms?
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IAMCLANWOLF

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Re: Hellbringer M
« Reply #7 on: 09 September 2021, 16:26:20 »
Very nice mod work. Looks like the mini came that way. Which is not easily accomplished.

avon1985

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Re: Hellbringer M
« Reply #8 on: 09 September 2021, 19:43:39 »
Very sweet! :thumbsup:

Draco

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Re: Hellbringer M
« Reply #9 on: 10 September 2021, 00:35:25 »
Mind walking us through your painting process?

The base is a lazy green using Citadel contrast paints. Corax White base1, thin coat of Warp Lightning for base shading followed by Akhelian Green2 for a more saturated blue-green. I finish it with either a drybrush or an edge highlight of medium green, Reaper's Naga Green in this case, but I may switch to a lighter shade in the future for better contrast. On this model the contrast was a bit rushed, I think it's come out better on some of my others.

The yellow is more challenging but boils down to a basic layering. It starts with a base coat of a tan-yellow. I'm using Vallejo's gold-brown, which unfortunately needs 2-3 coats3 for even coverage over the dark green. Then its 3-4 layers of progressively lighter yellows. I'm using WarColours yellow layering paint set, but a wet palette and the white and deep yellow of your choice would do. I finish with a thin pinwash of Army Painter mid brown wash in any crevices.

The rest is details, greys for joints, vents, and weapons, jeweling for lasers and cockpit.

So the SRM6 on the CT was split to the edges of the torso?  I am asking b/c I am thinking of converting a Hellbringer Prime into the M.  What did you use for the different arms?

The 'hip-firing' description put me in mind of the old Loki art, with what looked like two three-tube launchers, one on each leg. The stats call for a CT mounted SRM 6, so I went with a split-6 low on the torso to get the look. I modeled a launcher that looks like the Hellbringer's shoulder mounted 6 pack, but with only three tubes, made two of them, and cut into the torso to fit them so they wouldn't interfere with the arms or legs.

I've seen it said that the old Loki hip launchers were supposed to be the A-Pods, which I believe the current model represents with the circular detailing on the calves. The M doesn't have A-Pods, so I filled those details in.

The arms are from a Summoner. The right PPC arm had the lower arm cut off to flip it 180 so the whole thing could be mounted as a left arm, then the PPC cut off and replace with a pair of brass tube lasers. The left cannon arm I drilled out the shoulder and replaced with styrene rod detailed to match its original look but reversed, again so it could be mounted on the opposite side. The lower arm was cut off and replaced with the right arm from a Shadow Cat.

1 If anyone knows a good brush on alternative to Corax White with the same satin finish, I'd be glad to hear it. The pots I get dry out too fast and require thinning, and other white/light grey primers don't seem to take the contrast as well. I'd use a spray on but the humidity in my area is not good for that.
2 I use Creed Camo in this step to get a nice bright green for generic Capellan schemes.
3 WarColours makes a one-coat yellow that lives up to the name. On some models I've based the yellow trim with this, then put the gold-brown over it to save a layer. Easily the smoothest and best coverage yellow paint I've ever used.

 

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