Author Topic: Army Painter/Minwax Polyshade  (Read 5444 times)

ShadowRaven

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Army Painter/Minwax Polyshade
« on: 21 January 2013, 21:35:44 »
So, I was helping my brother with a small carpentry project over the weekend, and as a result I have most of a can of minwax polyshade Tudor stain. Now I know from other discussions that this is essentially the same as Army Painter wash. But now the million dollar question is, what do i do with it? how do I use it in the production of mini's It's somewhat different then the ussual ink washes I am familiar, if not particularily proficient with, so what steps do I take?
We are Clan Snow Raven. Masters of the void, and reapers of your souls

befriend (v.): to use mecha-class beam weaponry to inflict grievous bodily harm on a target in the process of proving the validity of your belief system.
— From a post on rpg.net

abou

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Re: Army Painter/Minwax Polyshade
« Reply #1 on: 21 January 2013, 22:04:24 »
I use army painter after I've finished painting.  Because it comes in different shades, you have to realize that it'll only work well with certain colors.  For example, if you paint a mini white, don't use the Strong or Dark tone on it as you'll badly tint the white.  There are a few different ways to use it, including dipping and then shaking off.  I once sent an unseen Rifleman flying into the grass with this method... I'll never do that again.

I prefer to brush it on the mini with it hanging upside down over the tin.  Start from the feet and brush down to the head and then brush off the excess.  This way, it darkens shadows nicely.  You'll be there brushing off excess for a while as if too much pools you will obscure detail.  And unlike wood, you can't just get fine steel wool to smooth it out again.  Once it is dry and hardens, you'll have a nice and solid layer of protection.  I then use a matte varnish to get rid of the shine, then paint cockpit glass and jewel anything.  I finish with painting those features with a brush-on gloss varnish.  You can paint over the Minwax/Army Painter, but you get bad adherence and it takes more coats than it should.

For cleaning, I've found isopropyl alcohol is the best for brushes.  You can mess with thinner if you want, but the alcohol is the easiest.

abou

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Re: Army Painter/Minwax Polyshade
« Reply #2 on: 21 January 2013, 22:15:09 »
If it helps, all of these guys were finished with Army Painter: http://bg.battletech.com/forums/index.php/topic,7971.msg182945.html#msg182945

It was the medium tone one, which I think is Strong.

ShadowRaven

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Re: Army Painter/Minwax Polyshade
« Reply #3 on: 21 January 2013, 23:22:17 »
very nice. Thank you
We are Clan Snow Raven. Masters of the void, and reapers of your souls

befriend (v.): to use mecha-class beam weaponry to inflict grievous bodily harm on a target in the process of proving the validity of your belief system.
— From a post on rpg.net

wasp

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Re: Army Painter/Minwax Polyshade
« Reply #4 on: 23 January 2013, 12:56:09 »
I found that the army painter works best for your more earthy colors.  I tried using the strong tone on a Lyran Guard scheme and had to touch it up a little because it really tinted the blue and white brown.  Part of it was my faul because of exess pooling, but it gave abit more grimey used look than I was hoping for.  I might have to try the brush technique for better control. I have used the dunk and shake method for some WWII miniatures I have and it worked well.  I would like to hear/see how the Tudor color works for you.

Wasp

abou

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Re: Army Painter/Minwax Polyshade
« Reply #5 on: 23 January 2013, 19:36:49 »
Yeah, if you're going to be painting white or using other lighter colors, you need to use the Soft Tone.  That being said, ivories or creams can use the Strong Tone.

Ratboy

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Re: Army Painter/Minwax Polyshade
« Reply #6 on: 24 January 2013, 10:32:29 »
So, I was helping my brother with a small carpentry project over the weekend, and as a result I have most of a can of minwax polyshade Tudor stain. Now I know from other discussions that this is essentially the same as Army Painter wash. But now the million dollar question is, what do i do with it? how do I use it in the production of mini's It's somewhat different then the ussual ink washes I am familiar, if not particularily proficient with, so what steps do I take?


Is the one you have Oil based or Water based?



Jim Williamson - CDT Agent #206
NJ, USA

ShadowRaven

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Re: Army Painter/Minwax Polyshade
« Reply #7 on: 24 January 2013, 16:16:51 »
oil based
We are Clan Snow Raven. Masters of the void, and reapers of your souls

befriend (v.): to use mecha-class beam weaponry to inflict grievous bodily harm on a target in the process of proving the validity of your belief system.
— From a post on rpg.net

Papabees

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Re: Army Painter/Minwax Polyshade
« Reply #8 on: 24 January 2013, 18:44:31 »
I typically paint my mini without a base almost to completion (as above no laser lenses/cockpits). Let the mini dry completely. I then glue the mini to a nail as centered as possible. Dip in varnish and then put the nail inside my drill (yes my power drill). Lower into a cardboard box. Gradually turn on the drill. The centrifugal force with "spray" off all the excess varnish. Stab the nail in some styrofoam and let dry. 

Ratboy

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Re: Army Painter/Minwax Polyshade
« Reply #9 on: 27 January 2013, 11:46:52 »
The oil based version MAY cause an issue with your paints. It may cause them to dissolve on the miniature because the stain is oil/solvent based.


try a test first. also, to thin it (for a lighter shade) you will have to use turpentine (or similar) which will definitely strip the paint from your minis.


If you really want to dip (which I can't recommend anyone do on Battletech models) either use army painter or get a can of water based stain.


I've used the latter in many, many terrain projects and love it for tinting earth-tones.
Jim Williamson - CDT Agent #206
NJ, USA

 

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